SS-P160FA

Controller operations

If you set your fridge to 0°C, it will cycle from 0°C–4°C and keep your drinks around 2°C.

Trouble shooting / basic info

There are basic things you need to look at and check before trying to initiate a technician call out for warranty circumstances.

I have ice building up on my inner rear wall?

If ice is building up in the area under the fan on the rear inner wall, it can be caused by a number of things. It can also cause the fan to suddenly create noise as it starts to contact the ice.

1. Inner fan has stopped working — check the fan is going. If it isn't working, please contact us.
2. The door has been left open or ajar. Please defrost the fridge by turning it off for about 6 hours. Wind the front feet up slightly so the door can shut a bit easier, then try again.

I have water coming out from inside the fridge?

The unit is not level, and the evaporator's excess water is not travelling to the drain properly. It is fine to have the 'front' of the fridge higher than the rear, so try extending the 2 × front feet a little.

My display is fluctuating up and down?

1. LED controller: The LED display goes up/down — this is the normal operation of every fridge in the world. Fridges 'cycle' on and off to help protect the compressor, defrost ice and keep the set temperature stable. These units have a 'variance of 4°C' in the cycle, so if you SET your fridge at 2°C, the compressor goes OFF at 2°C, then back ON at 6°C — that is the 4°C differential. During this time it DOES NOT mean your drinks go from 2°C to 6°C; liquid takes a lot longer to rise in temp than air. A setting of 2°C will generally keep drinks at 3°C–4°C.
2. Defrost: There is also a defrost cycle programmed into the unit (to remove ice from the evaporator), governed by the run time of the compressor followed by a stop time. With these we run a 6-hour run time before a 20-minute stop time, so during this defrost stop time the display can reach 10°C–12°C — again, this is NOT the temperature of your drinks. Defrost is a very important part of the fridge operation.
3. Ice up: If you notice really unstable temperature and fluctuations, please check the INNER rear wall and see if you can see any buildup of ICE. If ice has built up, turn off for 6 hours and restart.

The units are controlled by a sensor located in the cabinet, so the display on the screen compared to your OWN thermometer can vary depending on where you place it within the fridge, the location of the cabinet sensor, and how your fridge is filled with product.

My fridge cools but just not enough?

1. Check to ensure you have the correct ventilation for the fridge, as per below.
   Each Side: 40mm
   Top: 40mm
   Rear: 150mm
2. The unit cannot have another 'door' in front of the fridge door — this is incorrect installation and voids warranty.
3. The unit must be 100% away from sunlight and out of the weather — this is incorrect installation and voids warranty.
4. Check the inner fan is going.
   If this fan isn't on it will cause the unit to ice up and airflow will be impeded, making the unit only run at about 10°C or more.
5. Check there is no ice buildup on the rear wall just under the fan area.
   Again, this could be caused by a faulty fan, but also by settings on the controller. Some areas may need more defrost time than others to disperse the ice buildup effectively (higher humidity causes more ice). Try turning off for 6 hours and restarting; if it happens again, contact us below to start the process of rectifying.
6. Check the underneath fan is working.
   If this fan isn't going it will cause the compressor to stop with safety overload due to excess heat; operation will be impeded, making the unit only run at about 10°C or more.
7. Check if there is ice or excess buildup of water at the rear around the piping on the compressor.
   This can happen if the unit has a gas problem and a technician is needed.
8. Check that the condenser (big black cage-like piping part near the compressor at the rear) hasn't blocked up with dust and particles. Cleaning this periodically is important — a blocked condenser will cause the compressor to get too hot and stop with safety overload, and the unit will not chill properly.

The unit has all of a sudden become noisy?

1. Inner fan?
   A) Fan is faulty and the bearing has failed — this will make a very loud noise; a new fan is required.
   B) The unit has iced up on the evaporator, causing the fan to hit ice; this will eventually strangle the fan and it will fail.
   C) Something may have come loose near the fan, like the screws that hold it in, or a wire has made its way into the path of the blade.
2. Rear fan?
   A) Fan is faulty and the bearing has failed — this will make a very loud noise; a new fan is required.
   B) Something may have come loose near the fan, like the screws that hold it in, or a wire has made its way into the path of the blade.
3. Compressor? This is the main working motor of the unit and starts and stops 6–8 times an hour. If uneven, this could make a noise during running. Check the bolts that hold it in place are tight.
4. Foreign rattle? The piping has liquid and gas running through it 100% of the time, which can cause it to vibrate during operation; if the piping is close to another part of the fridge it could make a sound if it touches that part.

Resources

• SS-P160 Manual 2018