SK135
- Model: SK135
Trouble Shooting / Basic Info
There are basic items that can be checked before needing to initiate a technician call out for warranty/repair circumstances.
I have ice building up on my inner rear wall?
If ice is building up in the area under fan on rear inner wall it can be caused by a number of things. This can also create noise as the fan blade physically contacts the ice.
1. Inner fan has stopped working, check fan operation.
2. Defrost cycle is not working - The units have a defrost cycle programmed into them, after 5 hours of compressor operation the unit will stop for 20 minutes.
3. Unit is set too low and is not used frequently enough to allow defrost to take place. Eg, if set at 0-2°c and unit is left unused for an extended period (approx. 2 weeks), ice may slowly form on the evaporator. To remedy this issue, power unit off for 6hrs and restart, remembering that unit is defrosting, and you may get excess water overflow from the drain underneath, it is advisable to place some towels down etc.
I have water coming out from inside the fridge?
1. The unit is not level, and the evaporator excess water is not travelling to the drain properly. It is fine to have the 'front' of the fridge higher than rear, so try extending the 2 x front feet a little.
2. The drain is blocked or 'frozen'. This can happen for different reasons, the drain hole is located behind the rear inner wall in fridge, so you don't have eye contact etc. which makes it hard to diagnose. The easiest way to see if blocked is to pull unit out and remove rear bottom cover, this will give you access to the 'drip tray', this has piping in it that gets hot during cycling and dissipates water. There should be a small pipe prominent there that comes from under unit to the tray, grab it and 'blow' air strongly to see if it is obstructed etc. To check if it's frozen over you need to remove the inside rear wall, which means you need to fully empty the fridge, take out shelves and runners (long sections that hold shelves) and remove rear wall.
My display is fluctuating up and down?
Led Controller: The led display goes up/down, this is the normal operation of every fridge in the world, fridges 'cycle' 'on and off' to help protect compressor, defrost ice and to keep the set temperature stable. These units have a 'variance of 4°c in the cycle, so if you SET your fridge at 2°c, it means that compressor goes OFF at 2°c, then back ON at 6°c, that is the 4°c differential. During this time, it DOES NOT mean your drinks go from 2-6°c, liquid takes a lot longer to rise in temp than air. So just be governed by the temperature of your drinks, NOT what is on the display. A setting of 2°c will generally keep drinks at 3-4°c.
Defrost: There is also a defrost cycle programmed into the unit (to remove ice from evaporator), which is governed by the run time of compressor, then by a stop time, so with these we run a 6hr run time before a 15 minute stop time, so during this defrost stop time the display can reach 10-12°c, again this is NOT the temperature of your drinks. Defrost is a very important part of the fridge operation.
Ice Up: If you notice really unstable temperature and fluctuations, please check the INNER rear wall and see if you can see any buildup of ICE. If ice has built up, turn off for 6 hours and restart.
My unit runs but isn't chilling at all?
If your unit turns ON, and inner fan, underneath fan and compressor are running then you may have gas problem.*
*Note: This is for units that that fridge temp is same as ambient (room) and isn't coming down at all.
1. Unit has not reached SET temp after about 3hrs operating (200minutes). In this case something is wrong like ice buildup, door open or simply unit has lost its gas charge. If gas charge is lost technician is needed, start process by contacting us below.
2. A relay in controller that controls the compressor has failed. This means that unit will turn ON, but compressor cannot turn OFF, so eventually and quite quickly unit will go below ZERO and ice up. To test is this is the cause, turn off overnight and back ON next day, watch the display drop and see if it turns OFF when it reaches your desired temp.
3. A faulty fan still MAY cause this error, as unit will not be able to get the SET temp, so check this also.
4. Blocked drier - this isn't that common, but can cause unit to stop completely, to help check this is you access rear area near the compressor, you can grab hold of drier, if it is excessively hot it is blocked.
The actual temperature inside is higher than what is on the display?
The units are controlled by a sensor located in the cabinet, so the display on the screen compared to your OWN thermometer will vary depending on the position you place it within the fridge, the location of the cabinet sensor and how your fridge is filled with product.
1. The difference between TOP section and BOTTOM section can be about 2°c, with bottom usually the coldest. So, setting at 2°c means when sensor 'feels' 2°c it turns unit off, at this point inside fridge that area will be 2°c but higher positions in fridge will be 3°c or 4°c.
2. For more 'even' temperature you should keep the area 'in front of GRILL' on the inner back wall about 5cm free from product, allow the air to blow out the bottom and have small spaces between the product to allow air to flow to all areas of fridge.
3. Again, check for ice on the rear inner wall, if evaporator has iced up you lose air flow and unit won't run at set temperature.
Unit cools but just not enough?
1. Check inner fan is going? - If this fan isn't going it will cause unit to ice up and airflow will be impeded, making unit only run at about 10oC or more.
2. Check there is no ice buildup of rear wall just under fan area. - Again, this could be caused by faulty fan, but also could be caused by settings on controller. Some areas may need more defrost time than others to disperse the ice buildup effectively (higher humidity causes more ice). Try turning off for 6hrs and restarting, if it happens again contact us below to start process of rectifying.
3. Check underneath fan is working. - If this fan isn't going it will cause the compressor to stop with safety overload, because of excess heat, the operation will be impeded, making unit only run at about 10°c or more.
4. Check if there is ice or excess buildup of water at rear around piping on compressor - This can happen is the unit has a gas problem and technician is needed.
5. Check that the condenser (big black cage like black piping part near compressor at rear) hasn't blocked up with dust and particles, cleaning this periodically is important, a blocked condenser will cause compressor to get too hot and stop with safety overload, unit will not chill properly.
*Note: If a fan has stopped working it could be that the 'transformer' that actually runs the 12V fan has failed, so that needs to be diagnosed.
Unit has all of a sudden become noisy?
First ascertain exactly where the noise is coming from.
1. Inner fan - With inner fan there are a few ways it can become noisy.
a) Fan is faulty, and bearing has failed, this will make a very loud noise, new fan required
b) The unit has iced up on evaporator, causing fan to hit ice, this will eventually strangle fan, and it will fail
c) Something may have come loose near fan, like screws that hold it in, or a wire has made its way to get touched by blade
2. Rear fan?
a) Fan is faulty, and bearing has failed, this will make a very loud noise, new fan required
b) Something may have come loose near fan, like screws that hold it in, or a wire has made its way to get touched by blade
3. Compressor? - This is the main working motor of unit and starts and stops 6-8 times an hour. If uneven this could make a noise during running. Check the bolts that hold it in place haven't come loose.
4. Foreign Rattle - With fridges the actual piping has liquid and gas running through it 100% of the time, this can cause piping to vibrate during operation, if the piping is close to another part of the fridge it could make a sound if it touches another part.
*Note: If a fan has stopped working it could be that the transformer that actually runs the 12V fan has failed, so that needs to be diagnosed.
Unit has stopped cooling or is not cooling enough?
1. Check ventilation around the fridge. You need 10mm at sides and top with 50mm at the rear.
2. The unit cannot have another ‘door’ in front of the fridge door, this is incorrect installation and voids warranty
3. The unit must be 100% away from sunlight and out of the weather, this is incorrect installation and voids warranty
4. Check compressor definitely comes ON.
5. Check inner fan is going and that there is NO ice buildup on the inner rear wall
6. Check if you can feel a slight breeze coming out of grill at the front when the compressor is on.
7. Check the temperature that you have the fridge set on. If the fridge is set on 2°c, it will cycle between 2 - 6°c and keep your drinks around 4°c.
Door doesn't seem to close properly?
With the door, sometimes it can 'drop' slightly, when this happens it will catch on the bottom panel. This is easy to adjust by either re doing the hinge screws tight or checking the actual black grill panel to move it down slightly.
I have water/fog forming on the outside of the glass door?
In 55-60% humidity or more you will start to form fog and then water on outside of glass door, this is normal is glass door fridge operation. A lot depends on the type of glass, if you have special LOW E glass it helps prevent up to about 75% and heated glass gets you to 100%.
Is Inner Fan Noisy?
The inner fan may have developed faulty bearings and if this happens the noise will be very loud, like a plane landing in your loungeroom. You need to replace the fan.
Another reason is the fan blade itself may have 'moved' on its axis or is slightly out of position, it maybe touching the fan bracket, so slightly moving the fan or bracket to different position can be an easy fix. If you are looking at this while unit is running, remember to be careful as the connections do contain 240V.
Unit cools but just not enough?
1. If one of the fans has failed (inner and underneath) then the unit will just not quite get to temp, usually will sit about 8-12°c. Check both fans.
2. Check your condenser under unit to make sure it hasn't blocked up with dust and particles. This is the part is a big black wire cage, and it's important to be clean.
3. Is door sealing properly? A gap in sealing can cause unit to ice up on rear wall and stop air flow, causing it to not quite cool
Unit has stopped cooling completely?
If unit has stopped cooling completely, meaning fridge only sits at 'room temperature' then you need to check these main things.
1. Inner fan still going?
2. Bottom fan and compressor still going?
*If all above going and unit has no cooling then unit has gas problem. Tech required.
Unit has stopped cooling or is not cooling enough?
1. Check ventilation around the fridge. You need 40mm at sides and top with 150mm at the rear.
2. The unit cannot have another ‘door’ in front of the fridge door, this is incorrect installation and voids warranty
3. The unit must be 100% away from sunlight and out of the weather, this is incorrect installation and voids warranty
4. Check compressor definitely starts
5. Check inner fan is going and that there is NO ice buildup on the inner rear wall
6. Check if you can feel a slight breeze coming out of grill at the front when the compressor is on.
7. Check the temperature that you have the fridge set on. If the fridge is set on 2°c, it will cycle between 2 - 6°c and keep your drinks around 4°c.
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