2. A door may have been left open or ajar which can cause ice to build up.
Defrost unit by turning the fridge off for minimum 12 hours - it may be worth putting some towels down to catch any excess water, depending on how much ice has accumulated.


My Controller Display Is Fluctuating Up And Down?

Led Controller: The LED display cycles up and down; this is normal operation. Fridges 'cycle' on and off to help protect the compressor, defrost ice and keep temperatures stable. Our units have a 'variance' of 4°C in their cycle, i.e. if you SET your fridge at 2°C, the compressor will cool to 2°C, and then shut down. The unit will cycle back ON at 6°C, as the air in the fridge naturally warms when the compressor is not operating. During this cycle, drinks temperature will be unaffected, as fluid temperature rises much slower than air temperature. A setting of 2°C will generally keep drinks at 3-4°C.

Defrost cycle: There is a defrost cycle programmed into the unit to remove ice from the evaporator, which is governed by the run/stop time of the compressor. Our units have a 6-hour total run time followed by a 20-minute Defrost cycle.


Unit Not Cooling Enough?

If the fridge still 'cools' but isn't quite getting to the SET temperature, try to check the following items.

1. Check Inner Fan Is Operating.
If the internal fan/s are not working, it can cause ice to build up, impeding airflow, which can cause the unit to run at 10°C or more.

2. Check There Is No Ice Buildup On Rear Wall Under The Inner Fan. 
This could be caused by a faulty fan, or possible incorrect settings on the controller. Some areas may need longer defrost time than others to disperse any ice buildup effectively (higher humidity can cause more ice to form). Try turning off the fridge for at least 6 hours and then restarting, if ice forms again, please contact us.

3. Check For Ice Or Excess Buildup Of Water In The Fridges Rear Compartment.

This can be caused by an issue with the refrigerant system and a technician may be required.

5. Check The Condenser (Coiled piping and wiring next to the condenser fan, in rear compartment) hasn't blocked up with dust and debris. 
Cleaning this component periodically is very important, as a contaminated condenser can cause the compressor to overheat, and the unit will not cool efficiently.


My Fridge Is Noisier Than Usual?

1. Inner Fan? - Inner fans can develop noise faults in several ways.

A) The Fan bearing has failed, this will make a very loud noise and will require replacing the fan.

B) The unit has ice buildup on the evaporator, the inner fan blades can contact this ice, which will eventually damage/stop the fan and cause it to fail.

C) Componentry may have come loose near the fan, i.e. loose mounting screws or an unsecured wire has made its way into the path of the fan blade.

2. Compressor?

A) The compressor is the main working motor of the unit and will cycle on and off around 6-8 times an hour. If it is uneven, it could make a noise during running or during startup/shutdown. Check the compressor mounting bolts are tight and the fridge is level.

3. Rattle/Vibration?

A) Fridge piping has liquid and gas circulating through it constantly, if the piping is close to another part of the fridge, it may cause a vibration noise if it comes into contact with this part.