SG1, SG2, SG3 Models (Sliding & Hinged Doors)

I have an error message on my electronic display?

There are 2 controllers depending on the year purchased — the Carel ECO controller and the Danfoss ECO controller. They both have basic error codes.

CAREL (all prior to mid 2017)

"E0" — cabinet probe/sensor fault.

"E1" — evaporator probe/sensor fault.

"dF" — alternate flash with cabinet probe/sensor temperature whilst in defrost.

"dor" — door open timeout. Turn the unit off and on. *This should not show on later models as this function has been disabled.

"E3" — refrigerant system failure alarm; can be many things, from a faulty fan to loss of gas.

"EnS" — alternating to cabinet probe temp; the unit is in "Energy Saving Mode". To take it out of energy saving mode, press and hold the 'ES' button for 5 seconds.

I have water coming out from inside the fridge?

1. The unit is not level, and the evaporator water is not travelling to the drain properly. It is fine to have the 'front' of the fridge higher than the rear (up to 5mm), so try extending the 2 × front feet a little.
2. The drain is blocked or 'frozen'. This can happen for different reasons; the drain hole is located behind the rear inner wall in the fridge, so you don't have eye contact, which makes it hard to diagnose. The easiest way to see if it's blocked is to pull the unit out and remove the rear bottom cover — this gives you access to the drip tray. A small pipe should be prominent there; grab it and 'blow' air strongly to see if it is obstructed. To check if it's frozen over, you need to remove the inside rear wall, which means fully emptying the fridge, taking out the shelves and runners (the long bits that hold the shelves), and removing the rear wall.

I have water/fog forming on the outside of the glass door?

1. In 65–75% humidity or more, the unit will start to form 'fog' and then 'water' on the outside of the glass door. This is normal in glass-door fridge operation and cannot be controlled.
2. These Rhino units have special 'Double Layered LOW-E' glass, which allows them to be much more resilient to condensation forming, whereas normal glass would condensate at 50% RH.
3. The only way to stop this happening is to have a unit with the heated door feature.

My LED light has stopped working?

The LED lights generally last 100,000 hours, so if the light is 'not' coming on it will 99% of the time be the transformer that is faulty — this is the power supply to the LED light.

*Remember the light on/off switch is on the actual electronic controller.

The door on my fridge has dropped and sits uneven?

Over time, and with heavier 'usage' than normal domestic use, the door can eventually 'drop' a little due to hinge movement. The door is fully adjustable with this hinge, so it can be fixed. The bottom hinge is the one you need to access — it's best to empty the fridge and place it 'on its back' to do this, as you need to access underneath the unit to remove the bottom grill. Be careful with the self-closing function as it has a little pressure on the hinge; if you undo all the screws it is difficult to put back. You only need to loosen the screws in order to reposition the door by adjusting the hinge.

My fridge doesn't cool at all?

1. If you have no chilling, then follow this process before arranging a technician or warranty claim.
2. The more information you can provide, the quicker we can diagnose and get you back up and running.
3. Check that all normal operations are occurring — (inner fan, rear fan, compressor, controller).
4. Check for icing up inside the unit on the rear wall around the area where the air ventilating slots are, and just above these.
   *If the unit has NO ice, NO errors on the display, and all components are running (inner fan, rear fan, compressor), then there will more than likely be a gas issue or a blockage in the refrigeration system — a technician is then needed.
5. Check for 'error' codes on the LED display (see the error codes list above).
   The most common error code is E3 and is related to a refrigerant alarm, which can be many things. To start, first try turning the unit OFF at the power and then back ON — this could clear any problem/bug the Carel controller may think is going on. It has a lot of safety mechanisms in order to protect the fridge at the slightest hint of a problem. If the E3 returns again, usually within 6 hrs, then there is a problem.

My fridge is cooling but not fully to the set temperature?

1. Inner fan has stopped working — this will cause the unit to only chill to about 8–15°C, and in most cases it will cause the 'evaporator' (located behind the inner rear wall) to ice up.
2. If the area explained above near the slots in the rear inner wall is iced up but the fan is 'still working', defrost the unit overnight and try to run again. If it ices up the following day, you may have a controller problem (which causes the compressor to not turn off, again icing the unit up). If that is the case, the controller may need replacing — the main relay will have blown/burnt out. When an evaporator is iced up the airflow stops and hence cooling stops.
3. Fan at the rear underneath section has stopped working — this will cause the compressor to get too hot and go out on 'safety overload' before it has a chance to get to 'set' temperature. Again, the unit will only get to about 8–15°C depending on environment; to be clear, the unit will be running and will still be under ambient, it just won't be at set temperature.
4. Check you haven't placed product too close to the rear inner wall — leave around a 5cm gap between the wall and the product.
5. Ensure you have plenty of airflow by having small 2mm gaps between bottles and cans.
6. Check the rear condenser (the part in the bottom rear section that looks like a radiator) hasn't blocked up with particles (dust, hair, leaves, or pet hair), as this strangles the cooling operation and the unit will only get to about 10°C.
7. Worst-case scenario is the unit is low on gas — a technician is needed to diagnose this.

*Remember, if putting a full HOT load in the fridge, it can take 12 hours to fully chill properly.

*You 100% cannot have sunlight on the glass either — less than 30 minutes of sunlight can make the inner temperature of a fridge 65°C!

The fridge's self-closing door isn't working now?

The door itself has a special inner 'rod' that gives it the spring to close. Although this part doesn't come under any warranty, it may fail after 1–3 years of outdoor use, especially near ocean areas. We have spare parts, so it can be rectified no problems and can be fitted without a technician or voiding the warranty.

My fridge has all of a sudden become noisy?

1. A fan has failed — check the inner and rear fans. Bearing failure will cause excessive noise.
2. The main compressor — if faulty, it will make a constant rattling/clunking sound.
3. A fan may be hitting on something, or a bracket that holds the fan could be loose — check this first.
4. A screw may have come loose somewhere inside or at the rear of the fridge — this can make a vibrating sound during the cooling cycle.

Resources

• SG Manual 2025
• SG Manual 2024