The SG range of fridges, depending on year of manufacture, will have one of two types of electronic controller installed, see below to confirm the controller type fitted to your unit prior to troubleshooting.
STC-600 ECS180-NEO (CURRENT MODEL)
I have an error message on my electronic display?
The following trouble codes apply to the STC-600 controller.
-HHH flashing on display means the inner temperature has reached higher than the units maximum allowed HIGH set point, or the cabinet sensor is faulty. This error can also trigger an alarm, which can be silenced by pressing any button on the controller.
-LLL flashing on display means the inner temperature has reached lower than the minimum allowed LOW set point, the unit has iced up or the cabinet sensor is faulty. This error can also trigger an alarm, which can be silenced by pressing any button on the controller.
The following trouble codes apply to the ECS 180-NEO controller.
E1 - Cabinet Temperature Sensor Failure.
E2 - Evaporator Sensor Failure.
E3 - Condenser Sensor Failure.
cH - Condenser High Temperature Alarm.
rH - Cabinet High Temperature Alarm.
rL - Cabinet Low temperature alarm.
I have ice building up on my fridges inner rear wall?
1. Inner fan is faulty, check fan is operational.
2. Unit defrost cycle is not working.
3. Temperature is set too low, and unit has minimal usage. EG. The Fridge is set at 0-2°C and isn't opened/used for extended periods, ice may slowly build up on the evaporator. Over time this ice block will grow and cause operational issues. This will require the fridge to be shut down to allow the ice to melt. As the unit defrosts, excess water may be released from the drain, we recommend placing towels around the base of the fridge to prevent water damage to floors/skirts etc.
I have purchased the SG nightclub unit and the green light switch is missing?
This is correct. Nightclub model lights are controlled by the remote.
I have water coming out from inside the fridge?
A few things can cause this to happen.
1. The unit is not level, and the evaporator water is not travelling to the drain properly. It is fine to have the 'front' of the fridge higher than rear, so try extending the 2 x front feet a little.
2. The drain tube may be blocked or Frozen. The condensation drain is located behind the rear wall inside the fridge and is accessible by removing the outer rear cover. A small pipe will be visible running from the fridge to the evaporation tray, Check this pipe for any obstructions/blockages. To check if it's frozen over you need to remove the inside rear wall, which means you need to fully empty the fridge, remove shelves and runners (long sections that hold shelves) and remove the inner rear wall.
I have water/fog forming on the outside of the glass door?
In 65-75% humidity or more these units will start to form 'fog' and then 'water' on the outside of the glass door, this is normal is glass door fridge operation, and cannot be controlled.
SG units have 'Double Layered LOW E' Glass which allows them to be much more resilient to condensation forming, whereas normal glass would condensate at around 50% humidity.
The only way to stop condensation forming completely is to have a unit with 'heated glass'. See Models with the prefix 'HD' in the header.
I want to be able to SET my Temperature Lower Than 2°C?
My LED light has stopped working?
LED lights generally last upwards of 100,000 hours, meaning in 99% of cases where a light is not working, the transformer will be at fault. In rare cases a wiring issue, rodent damage or a failed LED light can also cause issues.
The numbers of my fridges display are fluctuating up and down?
LED Controller: The numbers on the LED display will cycle up and down, fridges 'cycle' 'on and off' to help protect compressor, defrost ice and to keep set temperatures stable. Our units have a 'variance' of 4°C in the cycle, IE. if the fridge is set at 2°C, the compressor will shut OFF at 2°C, then switch ON at 6°C, as the air in the fridge naturally warms back up, this is the 4°c variance the display is fluctuating within.
Defrost: The defrost cycle programmed into the unit (to remove ice from the evaporator), is governed by the total run time of the compressor, then by a total stop time, SG units have a combined 6hr run time before up to a 35 minute defrost cycle on models with both STC-600 and ECS180 NEO controllers, during this defrost cycle the display may reach 10-12°C, this cycle will not affect the temperature of your drinks. Defrost is a very important part of the fridge's operation.
Ice Up: If you notice really unstable temperature and fluctuations, please check the INNER rear wall and see if you can see any buildup of ice. If ice has built up, defrost unit for a minimum of 12 hours, restart and monitor.
My door handle has come loose?
To tighten door handle:
1. Open door.
2. Remove black door seal from the inside of the door, where the handle attaches, do this by firmly pinching and pulling away, slowly.
3. Tighten handle screws and replace seal (push in tight).
The Door on my fridge has dropped and sits uneven?
Over time and with heavier than normal domestic use, the door can eventually 'drop' due to hinge movement. The door is fully adjustable with this hinge so it can be fixed. To access the bottom hinge, the fridge is best to be emptied and placed on its back, as you need to access under the unit to remove the lower grill. Take care as the self-closing system of the door will exert pressure on the hinge, slightly loosen the screws in order to reposition the door by adjusting hinge. Do not fully remove the screws mounting the hinge.
My Fridge isn't cooling or won't fully cool?
1. Fan not working. Visually Check Interior fan is operating. Check rear fan is operating, this can be done visually by removing the rear cover, or by holding a hand or tissue in front of the lower grill to check airflow. The rear fan will only operate when the snowflake icon is illuminated or indicated.
2. Check for error codes on display screen-see controller information above.
3. Unit is in sunlight, no glass door fridge can be exposed to direct sunlight at any point, this can overwork the compressor, prevent proper cooling and dramatically shorten the life of your fridge.
4. Refrigerant system failure, this will generally require a technician to diagnose.
My Fridge is making abnormal noise?
1. Fan Failure, check inner and rear fans for operation and obstruction. A worn bearing or obstruction may cause severe noise issues.
2. The main compressor, if faulty, it will make a constant rattling/clunking sound.
3. A screw may have come loose somewhere inside or at rear of fridge, this can make a vibrating sound during the cooling cycle.
*If your unit is noisier than expected from NEW, ask us about quiet fan upgrades.