MC - All Models

I want to adjust the temperature of my fridge?

Press the 'TEMP' button in succession until the desired temperature is reached; the display will flash and save the set temp.

I have a raindrop symbol with 'SUP.C' written under it on my display?

This is the 'Super Cooling' feature of your fridge. Press and hold the MODE button for 4 seconds to switch this mode off; to switch Super Cooling back on, press the MODE button once.

I want to adjust the temperature of my freezer?

Press the 'TEMP' button in succession until the desired temperature is reached; the display will flash and save the set temp.

I have a hexagon symbol with 'SUP.F' written under it on my display?

This is the 'Super Freezing' feature of your fridge. Press and hold the MODE button for 4 seconds to switch this mode off; to switch Super Freezing back on, press the MODE button once.

I have ice building up on my inner rear wall?

1. Inner fan has stopped working — check the fan is going.
2. Unit defrost cycle is not working. The units currently have a defrost programmed into them, so that after 6 hours of compressor operation the unit will stop for 15 minutes.
3. You have the unit set too low and are not using it enough for normal operation to allow defrost to take place. Basically, if you set it at 0–2°C and don't use the unit for a while (say 2 weeks), it has a chance to slowly build up ice on the evaporator. Over time this will get bigger and eventually cause trouble. To fix this, simply turn off for 6 hours and restart — remembering the unit is defrosting, so you may get excess water overflow from the drain underneath; place some towels down.

I have water coming out from inside the fridge?

1. The unit is not level, and the evaporator's excess water is not travelling to the drain properly. It is fine to have the 'front' of the fridge higher than the rear, so try extending the 2 × front feet a little.
2. The drain is blocked or 'frozen'. This can happen for different reasons; the drain hole is located behind the rear inner wall in the fridge, so you don't have eye contact, which makes it hard to diagnose. The easiest way to see if it's blocked is to pull the unit out and remove the rear bottom cover — this gives you access to the 'drip tray', which has piping in it that gets hot during cycling and dissipates water. There should be a small pipe prominent there that comes from under the unit to the tray; grab it and 'blow' air strongly to see if it is obstructed. To check if it's frozen over, you need to remove the inside rear wall, which means fully emptying the fridge, taking out the shelves and runners (the long bits that hold the shelves), and removing the rear wall.

My unit runs but isn't chilling at all?

If your unit turns ON, and the inner fan, underneath fan and compressor are running, then you may have a gas problem.

*Note: This is for units where the fridge temp is the same as ambient (room) and isn't coming down at all.

1. You can 'visually' check the fans and compressor are running.
   A) Unit has not reached SET temp after about 3 hrs operating (200 minutes). In this case something is wrong like ice buildup, door open, or the unit has simply lost its gas charge. If the gas charge is lost, a technician is needed.
   B) A relay in the PCB that controls the compressor has failed. This means the unit will turn ON, but the compressor cannot turn OFF, so eventually (and quite quickly) the unit will go below ZERO and ice up. To test if this is the cause, turn off overnight and back ON the next day, watch the display drop, and see if it turns OFF when it reaches your desired temp.
2. Blocked drier — this isn't that common, but can cause the unit to stop completely. To check, access the rear area near the compressor and grab hold of the drier; if it's red hot it is blocked.

The actual temperature inside is higher than what is on the display?

The units are controlled by a sensor located in the cabinet, so the display on the screen compared to your OWN thermometer can vary depending on where you place it within the fridge, the location of the cabinet sensor, and how your fridge is filled with product.

1. The difference between the TOP section and BOTTOM section can be about 2°C, with the bottom usually the coldest. So setting at 2°C means when the sensor 'feels' 2°C it turns the unit off; at this point that area inside the fridge will be 2°C but higher positions will be 3°C or 4°C.
2. For a more 'even' temperature you should keep the area 'in front of the GRILL' on the inner back wall about 5cm free from product, allow the air to blow out the bottom, and leave small spaces between product to allow flow to all areas of the fridge.
3. Again, check for ice on the rear inner wall — if the evaporator has iced up you lose airflow and the unit won't run at the set temperature.

The fridge/freezer cools but just not enough?

If your unit still 'cools' but isn't quite getting to the SET temperature, then you need to check the following things.

1. Check the inner fan is going.
   If this fan isn't going it will cause the unit to ice up and airflow will be impeded, making the unit only run at about 10°C or more.
2. Check there is no ice buildup on the rear wall just under the fan area.
   Again, this could be caused by a faulty fan, but also by settings on the controller. Some areas may need more defrost time than others to disperse the ice buildup effectively (higher humidity causes more ice). Try turning off for 6 hours and restarting.
3. Check the underneath fan is working.
   If this fan isn't going it will cause the compressor to stop with safety overload due to excess heat; operation will be impeded, making the unit only run at about 10°C or more.
4. Check if there is ice or excess buildup of water at the rear around the piping on the compressor.
   This can happen if the unit has a gas problem and a technician is needed.
5. Check that the condenser (big black cage-like piping part near the compressor at the rear) hasn't blocked up with dust and particles. Cleaning this periodically is important — a blocked condenser will cause the compressor to get too hot and stop with safety overload, and the unit will not chill properly.

*Note: If a fan has stopped working, it could be that the 'transformer' that runs the 12V fan has failed, so that needs to be diagnosed.

My fridge has all of a sudden become noisy?

1. Inner fan? There are a few ways it can become noisy.
   A) Fan is faulty and the bearing has failed — this will make a very loud noise; a new fan is required.
   B) The unit has iced up on the evaporator, causing the fan to hit ice; this will eventually strangle the fan and it will fail.
   C) Something may have come loose near the fan, like the screws that hold it in, or a wire has made its way into the path of the blade.
2. Rear fan?
   A) Fan is faulty and the bearing has failed — this will make a very loud noise; a new fan is required.
   B) Something may have come loose near the fan, like the screws that hold it in, or a wire has made its way into the path of the blade.
3. Compressor? This is the main working motor of the unit and starts and stops 6–8 times an hour. If uneven, this could make a noise during running. Check the bolts that hold it in place haven't come loose.
4. Foreign rattle? The piping has liquid and gas running through it 100% of the time, which can cause it to vibrate during operation; if the piping is close to another part of the fridge it could make a sound if it touches that part.

*Note: If a fan has stopped working, it could be that the transformer that runs the 12V fan has failed, so that needs to be diagnosed.