1. Inner fan has stopped working, check the fan is going.

2. Unit defrost cycle is not working - The units currently have a defrost programmed into them, so that after 6 hours of compressor operation the unit will stop for 15 minutes. 

3. You have unit set too low and are not using it enough for normal operation to allow defrost to take place. So basically, if you set at 0-2°c and don't used unit for a while (say 2weeks), then it has a chance to slowly build up ice on evaporator. Over time this will slowly get bigger and eventually will cause trouble. To fix this you simply turn off for 6hrs and restart, remembering that unit is defrosting, and you may get excess water overflow from the drain underneath, so place some towels down etc. 

I have water coming out from inside the fridge?

2. The drain is blocked or 'frozen'. This can happen for different reasons; the drain hole is located behind the rear inner wall in fridge, so you don't have eye contact etc. which makes it hard to diagnose. The easiest way to see if blocked is to pull unit out and remove rear bottom cover, this will give you access to the 'drip tray', this has piping in it that gets hot during cycling and dissipates water. There should be a small pipe prominent there that comes from under unit to the tray, grab it and 'blow' air strongly to see if it is obstructed etc. To check if it's frozen over you need to remove the inside rear wall, which means you need to fully empty the fridge, take out shelves and runners (long bits that hold shelves) and remove rear wall.

2. Use your 'up / down' arrows (Power / Defrost) to take to desired level,
Then press and HOLD SET again for 5 seconds.

The shelving is 'slide out style' and is designed to be able to be moved up/down via 'removable runners'. Runners are attached to wall, and shelf fits into these. If you want to move a shelf it needs to be removed from the runner first.

This link shows how to go about doing this as well as tips on moving the actual runner:
https://www.bar-fridges-australia.com.au/yc-fridge-information-on-shelving-and-how-to-operate.html

*On some earlier models the slots in walls are quite thin, it makes it easier to replace in position by using a flat head screwdriver to 'widen' the slot for the 'runner' to fit in.

My display is fluctuating up and down?

2. Defrost: There is also a defrost cycle programmed into the unit (to remove ice from evaporator), which is governed by the run time of compressor, then by a stop time, so with these we run a 6hr run time before a 15minute stop time, so during this defrost stop time the display can reach 10-12oC, again this is NOT the temperature of your drinks. Defrost is a very important part of the fridge operation.

3. Ice Up: If you notice really unstable temperature and fluctuations, please check the INNER rear wall and see if you can see any build up of ICE. If ice has built up, turn off for 6 hours and restart.

1. Open door
2. Remove black door seal in the area where the handle attaches, do this by firmly pinching and pulling up, slowly
3. Now you have access to the screws that hold handle in
4. Tighten the screws and replace seal (push in tight)

*Note: This is for units that that fridge temp is same as ambient (room), and isn't coming down at all.

1. You can 'physically' check the fans and compressor are running, you can also check LED 'controller', the 2 top left symbols are the compress and fan symbols, these should be ON.

2. Check for an error on display, the most common error is E3, this is generic alarm that means unit stopped operating properly at set temperature. Sometimes simply turning unit ON/OFF a few times can reset the Carel Controller.
*Some E3 causes are.
a) Unit has not reached SET temp after about 3hrs operating (200minutes). In this case something is wrong like ice buildup, door open or simply unit has lost its gas charge. If gas charge is lost technician is needed.

b) A relay in controller that controls the compressor has failed. This means that unit will turn ON, but compressor cannot turn OFF, so eventually and quite quickly unit will go below ZERO and ice up. To test is this is the cause, turn off overnight and back ON next day, watch the display drop and see if it turns OFF when it reaches your desired temp.

c) A faulty fan still MAY cause this error, as unit will not be able to get the SET temp, so check this also.

3. Blocked drier - this isn't that common, but can cause unit to stop completely, to help check this is you access rear area near the compressor, you can grab hold of drier, if it's red hot it is blocked.

The actual temperature inside is higher than what is on the display?

The units are controlled by a sensor located in the cabinet, so the display on the screen compared to your OWN thermometer can actually vary depending on the position you place it within the fridge, the location of the cabinet sensor and how your fridge is filled with product.

1. The difference between TOP section and BOTTOM section can be about 2°c, with bottom usually the coldest. So, setting at 2°c means when sensor 'feels' 2°c it turns unit off, at this point inside fridge that area will be 2°c but higher positions in fridge will be 3°c or 4°c.

2. For more 'even' temperature you should keep the area 'in front of GRILL' on the inner back wall about 5cm free from product, allow the air to blow out the bottom and have small spaces between the product to allow to flow to all areas of fridge.

3. Again, check for ice on the rear inner wall, if evaporator has iced up you lose air flow and unit won't run at set temperature.

Unit cools but just not enough?

If your unit still 'cools' but isn't quite getting to the SET temperature then you need to check following things.

1. Check inner fan is going. - If this fan isn't going it will cause unit to ice up and airflow will be impeded, making unit only run at about 10°c or more.

2. Check there is no ice buildup of rear wall just under fan area. - Again, this could be caused by faulty fan, but also could be caused by settings on controller. Some areas may need more defrost time than others to disperse the ice buildup effectively (higher humidity causes more ice). Try turning off for 6hrs and restarting.

3. Check underneath fan is working. - If this fan isn't going it will cause the compressor to stop with safety overload, because of excess heat, the operation will be impeded, making unit only run at about 10°c or more.

4. Check if there is ice or excess buildup of water at rear around piping on compressor - This can happen if the unit has a gas problem and technician is needed.

5. Check that the condenser (big black cage like black piping part near compressor at rear) hasn't blocked up with dust and particles, cleaning this periodically is important, a blocked condenser will cause compressor to get too hot and stop with safety overload, unit will not chill properly.

*Note: If a fan has stopped working it could be that the 'transformer' that actually runs the 12V fan has failed, so that needs to be diagnosed. 

Unit has all of a sudden become noisy?

1. Inner fan? - With inner fan there are a few ways it can become noisy.
a) Fan is faulty, and bearing has failed, this will make a very loud noise, new fan required
b) The unit has iced up on evaporator, causing fan to hit ice, this will eventually strangle fan, and it will fail.
c) Something may have come loose near fan, like screws that hold it in, or a wire has made its way to get touched by blade

2. Rear fan?
a) Fan is faulty, and bearing has failed, this will make a very loud noise, new fan required
b) Something may have come loose near fan, like screws that hold it in, or a wire has made its way to get touched by blade

3. Compressor? - This is the main working motor of unit and starts and stops 6-8 times an hour. If uneven this could make a noise during running. Check the bolts that hold it in place haven't come loose.

4. Foreign Rattle - With fridges the actual piping has liquid and gas running through it 100% of the time, this can cause piping to vibrate during operation, if the piping is close to another part of the fridge it could make a sound if it touches another part.

*Note: If a fan has stopped working it could be that the transformer that actually runs the 12V fan has failed, so that needs to be diagnosed.