JC430B

JC430B

JC430B

  • Model: JC430B

 I have ice building up on my inner rear wall?

Ice building up in the area around the fan on the rear inner wall it can be caused by a number of issues. This may also create noise if the inner fan contacts the ice.

1. Inner fan failure-check operation.

2. Unit defrost cycle is not working - These units have a defrost cycle programmed into them, after 6 hours of compressor operation the unit will rest for 15 minutes. 

3. Unit is set too low and has minimal usage. IE. Fridge set at 0-2°C and isn't for a while (say 2weeks), then it has a chance to slowly build up ice on evaporator. Over time this will slowly get bigger and eventually will cause trouble. To fix this you simply turn off for 6hrs and restart, remembering that unit is defrosting, and you may get excess water overflow from the drain underneath, so place some towels down etc.  


I have water coming out from inside the fridge?

A few things can cause this to happen.
1. The unit is not level, and the evaporator excess water is not travelling to the drain properly. It is fine to have the 'front' of the fridge higher than rear, so try extending the 2 x front feet a little.

2. The drain is blocked or 'frozen'. This can happen for different reasons, the drain hole is located behind the rear inner wall in fridge so you don't have eye contact etc. which makes it hard to diagnose. The easiest way to see if blocked is to pull unit out and remove rear bottom cover, this will give you access to the 'drip tray', this has piping in it that gets hot during cycling and dissipates water. There should be a small pipe  promiment there that comes from under unit to the tray, grab it and 'blow' air strongly to see if it is obstructed etc. To check if it's frozen over you need to remove the inside rear wall, which means you need to fully empty the fridge, take out shelves and runners (long bits that hold shelves) and remove rear wall.

Still having problems please fill out below and we will look at more options.


I want to set my temperature higher or lower?

-Press and HOLD SET for 5 seconds until temperature display starts flashing,
-Use your 'up / down' arrows (Power / Defrost) to adjust to desired level,
-Press and HOLD SET for 5 seconds.

I'm having trouble adjusting my shelves?

The shelving is 'slide out style' and is designed to be able to be moved up/down via 'removable runners'. Runners are attached to wall, and shelf fits into these. If you want to move a shelf it needs to be removed from the runner first.

This link shows how to go about doing this as well as tips on moving the actual runner:
https://www.bar-fridges-australia.com.au/yc-fridge-information-on-shelving-and-how-to-operate.html

My display is fluctuating up and down?

 

Led Controller: The led display goes up/down, this is the normal operation of every fridge in the world, fridges 'cycle'  'on and off' to help protect compressor, defrost ice and to keep the set temperature stable. These units have a 'variance of 4°C' in the cycle, so if you SET your fridge at 2°C, it means that compressor goes OFF at 2°C, then back ON at 6°C, that is the 4°C differential. During this time it DOES NOT mean your drinks go from 2-6°C, liquid takes a lot longer to rise in temp than air. So just be governed by the temperature of your drinks, NOT what is on the display. A setting of 2°C will generally keep drinks at 3-4°C.

Defrost: There is also a defrost cycle programmed into the unit (to remove ice from evaporator), which is governed by the run time of compressor, then by a stop time, so with these we run a 6 hour run time before a 15minute stop time, so during this defrost stop time the display can reach 10-12°C, again this is NOT the temperature of your drinks. Defrost is a very important part of the fridge operation.

Ice Up: If you notice really unstable temperature and fluctuations, please check the INNER rear wall and see if you can see any build up of ICE. If ice has built up, turn off for 6 hours and restart.

My door handle has come loose?

To tighten door handle:
1. Open door
2. Remove black door seal in the area where the handle attaches, do this by firmly pinching and pulling up, slowly
3. Now you have access to the screws that hold handle in
4. Tighten the screws and replace seal (push in tight)


My unit runs but isn't chilling at all?

If your unit turns ON, and inner fan, underneath fan and compressor are running then you may have gas problem.
*Note: This is for units that that fridge temp is same as ambient (room), and isnt coming down at all.

1. You can 'physically' check the fans and compressor are running, you can also check LED 'controller', the 2 top left symbols are the compress and fan symbols, there should be ON (pic below)

2. Check for an error on display, the most common error is E3, this is generic alarm that means unit stopped operating properly at set temperature. Sometimes simply turning unit ON/OFF a few times can reset the Carel Controller.
*Some E3 causes are;
   a) Unit has not reached SET temp after about 3hrs operating (200minutes). In this case something is wrong like ice build up, door open or simply unit has lost it's gas charge. If gas charge is lost technician is needed, start process by contacting us below.

   b) A relay in controller that controlls the compressor has failed. This means that unit will turn ON but compressor cannot turn OFF, so eventually and quite quickly unit will go below ZERO and ice up. To test is this is the cause, turn off overnight and back ON next day, watch the display drop and see if it turns OFF when it reaches your desired temp.

   c) A faulty fan still MAY cause this error, as unit will not be able to get the SET temp, so check this also.

3. Blocked drier - this isn't that common, but can cause unit to stop completely, to help check this is you access rear area near the compressor, you can grab hold of drier (pic below of what it looks like), if it's red hot it is blocked.



The actual temperature inside is higher than what is on the display?

The units are controlled by a sensor located in the cabinet, so the display on the screen compared to your OWN thermometer can actually vary depending on the position you place it within the fridge, the location of the cabinet sensor and how your fridge is filled with product.

Good things to know are.
1. The difference between TOP section and BOTTOM section can be about 2°C, with bottom usually the coldest. So setting at 2°C means when sensor 'feels' 2°C it turns unit off, at this point inside fridge that area will be 2°C but higher positions in fridge will be 3°C or 4°C.

2. For more 'even' temperature you should keep the area 'in front of GRILL' on the inner back wall about 5cm free from product, allow the air to blow out the bottom and have small spaces between the product to allow to flow to all areas of fridge.

3. Again, check for ice on the rear inner wall, if evaporator has iced up you lose air flow and unit won't run at set temperature.


Unit cools but just not enough?

If your unit still 'cools' but isn't quite getting to the SET temperature, then you need to check following things.

-Check inner fan is going? - If this fan isn't going it will cause unit to ice up and airflow will be impeded, making unit only run at about 10oC or more.

-Check there is no ice buildup of rear wall just under fan area. - Again, this could be caused by faulty fan, but also could be caused by settings on controller. Some areas may need more defrost time than others to disperse the ice buildup effectively (higher humidity causes more ice). Try turning off for 6hrs and restarting, if it happens again contact us below to start process of rectifying.

-Check underneath fan is working. - If this fan isn't going it will cause the compressor to stop with safety overload, because of excess heat, the operation will be impeded, making unit only run at about 10oC or more.

-Check if there is ice or excess buildup of water at rear around piping on compressor - This can happen is the unit has a gas problem and technician is needed.

-Check that the condenser (big black cage like black piping part near compressor at rear) hasn't blocked up with dust and particles, cleaning this periodically is important, a blocked condenser will cause compressor to get too hot and stop with safety overload, unit will not chill properly.

*Note: If a fan has stopped working it could be that the 'transformer' that actually runs the 12V fan has failed, so that needs to be diagnosed. 


Noisy

First ascertain exactly where the noise is coming from.
1. Inner fan? - With inner fan there are a few ways it can become noisy.
   a) Fan is faulty, and bearing has failed, this will make a very loud noise, new fan required
   b) The unit has iced up on evaporator, causing fan to hit ice, this will eventually strangle fan and it will fail
   c) Something may have come loose near fan, like screws that hold it in, or a wire has made its way to get touched by blade

2. Rear fan?
   a) Fan is faulty, and bearing has failed, this will make a very loud noise, new fan required
   b) Something may have come loose near fan, like screws that hold it in, or a wire has made its way to get touched by blade

3. Compressor? - This is the main working motor of unit and starts and stops 6-8 times an hour. If uneven this could make a noise during running. Check the bolts that hold it in place haven't come loose.

4. Foreign Rattle - With fridges the actual piping has liquid and gas running through it 100% of the time, this can cause piping to vibrate during operation, if the piping is close to another part of the fridge it could make a sound if it touches another part.

*Note: If a fan has stopped working it could be that the transformer that actually runs the 12V fan has failed, so that needs to be diagnosed. 


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