HUS-SC700W

Trouble shooting / basic info

There are basic items that can be checked before needing to initiate a technician call out for warranty/repair circumstances.

I have ice building up on my inner rear wall?

1. Inner fan has stopped working — check the fan is going.
2. Unit defrost cycle is not working. The units currently have a defrost programmed into them, so that after 6 hours of compressor operation the unit will stop for 15 minutes.
3. You have the unit set too low and are not using it enough for normal operation to allow defrost to take place. Basically, if you set it at 0°C–2°C and don't use the unit for a while (say 2 weeks), it has a chance to slowly build up ice on the evaporator. Over time this will get bigger and eventually cause trouble. To fix this, simply turn off for 6 hours and restart — remembering the unit is defrosting, so you may get excess water overflow from the drain underneath; place some towels down.

I have water coming out from inside the fridge?

1. The unit is not level, and the evaporator's excess water is not travelling to the drain properly. It is fine to have the 'front' of the fridge higher than the rear, so try extending the 2 × front feet a little.
2. The drain is blocked or 'frozen'. This can happen for different reasons; the drain hole is located behind the rear inner wall in the fridge, so you don't have eye contact, which makes it hard to diagnose. The easiest way to see if it's blocked is to pull the unit out and remove the rear bottom cover — this gives you access to the 'drip tray', which has piping in it that gets hot during cycling and dissipates water. There should be a small pipe prominent there that comes from under the unit to the tray; grab it and 'blow' air strongly to see if it is obstructed. To check if it's frozen over, you need to remove the inside rear wall, which means fully emptying the fridge, taking out the shelves and runners (the long bits that hold the shelves), and removing the rear wall.

My display is fluctuating up and down?

1. LED controller: The LED display goes up/down — this is the normal operation of every fridge in the world. Fridges 'cycle' on and off to help protect the compressor, defrost ice and keep the set temperature stable. These units have a 'variance of 4°C' in the cycle, so if you SET your fridge at 2°C, the compressor goes OFF at 2°C, then back ON at 6°C — that is the 4°C differential. During this time it DOES NOT mean your drinks go from 2°C to 6°C; liquid takes a lot longer to rise in temp than air. So be governed by the temperature of your drinks, NOT what is on the display. A setting of 2°C will generally keep drinks at 3°C–4°C.
2. Defrost: There is also a defrost cycle programmed into the unit (to remove ice from the evaporator), governed by the run time of the compressor followed by a stop time. With these we run a 6-hour run time before a 15-minute stop time, so during this defrost stop time the display can reach 10°C–12°C — again, this is NOT the temperature of your drinks. Defrost is a very important part of the fridge operation.
3. Ice up: If you notice really unstable temperature and fluctuations, please check the INNER rear wall and see if you can see any buildup of ICE. If ice has built up, turn off for 6 hours and restart.

My fridge runs but isn't chilling at all?

If your unit turns ON, and the inner fan, underneath fan and compressor are running, then you may have a gas problem.

*Note: This is for units where the fridge temp is the same as ambient (room) and isn't coming down at all.

The actual temperature inside is higher than what is on the display?

The units are controlled by a sensor located in the cabinet, so the display on the screen compared to your OWN thermometer can vary depending on where you place it within the fridge, the location of the cabinet sensor, and how your fridge is filled with product.

1. The difference between the TOP section and BOTTOM section can be about 2°C, with the bottom usually the coldest. So setting at 2°C means when the sensor 'feels' 2°C it turns the unit off; at this point that area inside the fridge will be 2°C but higher positions will be 3°C or 4°C.
2. For a more 'even' temperature you should keep the area 'in front of the GRILL' on the inner back wall about 5cm free from product, allow the air to blow out the bottom, and leave small spaces between product to allow flow to all areas of the fridge.
3. Again, check for ice on the rear inner wall — if the evaporator has iced up you lose airflow and the unit won't run at the set temperature.

The fridge cools but just not enough?

If your unit still 'cools' but isn't quite getting to the SET temperature, then you need to check the following things.

1. Check the inner fan is going.
   If this fan isn't going it will cause the unit to ice up and airflow will be impeded, making the unit only run at about 10°C or more.
2. Check there is no ice buildup on the rear wall just under the fan area.
   Again, this could be caused by a faulty fan, but also by settings on the controller. Some areas may need more defrost time than others to disperse the ice buildup effectively (higher humidity causes more ice). Try turning off for 6 hours and restarting.
3. Check the underneath fan is working.
   If this fan isn't going it will cause the compressor to stop with safety overload due to excess heat; operation will be impeded, making the unit only run at about 10°C or more.
4. Check if there is ice or excess buildup of water at the rear around the piping on the compressor.
   This can happen if the unit has a gas problem and a technician is needed.
5. Check that the condenser (big black cage-like piping part near the compressor at the rear) hasn't blocked up with dust and particles. Cleaning this periodically is important — a blocked condenser will cause the compressor to get too hot and stop with safety overload, and the unit will not chill properly.

*Note: If a fan has stopped working, it could be that the 'transformer' that runs the 12V fan has failed, so that needs to be diagnosed.

My fridge has all of a sudden become noisy?

1. Inner fan?
   A) Fan is faulty and the bearing has failed — this will make a very loud noise; a new fan is required.
   B) The unit has iced up on the evaporator, causing the fan to hit ice; this will eventually strangle the fan and it will fail.
   C) Something may have come loose near the fan, like the screws that hold it in, or a wire has made its way into the path of the blade.
2. Rear fan?
   A) Fan is faulty and the bearing has failed — this will make a very loud noise; a new fan is required.
   B) Something may have come loose near the fan, like the screws that hold it in, or a wire has made its way into the path of the blade.
3. Compressor? This is the main working motor of the unit and starts and stops 6–8 times an hour. If uneven, this could make a noise during running. Check the bolts that hold it in place haven't come loose.
4. Foreign rattle? The piping has liquid and gas running through it 100% of the time, which can cause it to vibrate during operation; if the piping is close to another part of the fridge it could make a sound if it touches that part.

Resources

• HUS-SC700W Manual 2026
• HUS-SC700W Manual 2024