2. Use your '+ or -' buttons to set to desired level,
Then press thermometer symbol button to set.

Note- you may need to press the '+ and -' buttons together to unlock the panel prior to setting the temperature.


My Display Is Fluctuating Up And Down?

1. Led Controller: The LED display goes up/down, this is the normal operation of every fridge in the world, fridges 'cycle' 'on and off' to help protect compressor, defrost ice and to keep the set temperature stable. These units have a 'variance of 4°c' in the cycle, so if you SET your fridge at 2°c, it means the compressor goes OFF at 2°c, then back ON at 6°c, that is the 4°c differential. During this time, it DOES NOT mean your drinks go from 2-6°c, liquid takes a lot longer to rise in temp than air. So just be governed by the temperature of your drinks, NOT what is on the display. A setting of 2°c will generally keep drinks at 3-4°c.

2. Defrost: There is also a defrost cycle programmed into the unit (to remove ice from evaporator), which is governed by the run time of compressor, then by a stop time, so with these we run a 6hr run time before a 15minute stop time, so during this defrost stop time the display can reach 10-12oC, again this is NOT the temperature of your drinks. Defrost is a very important part of the fridge's operation.

3. Ice Up: If you notice really unstable temperature and fluctuations, please check the INNER rear wall and see if you can see any build up of ICE. If ice has built up, turn off for 6 hours and restart.


My Door Handle Has Come Loose?
To tighten door handle:

1. Open door
2. Remove black door seal in the area where the handle attaches, do this by firmly pinching and pulling out, slowly.
3. Now you have access to the screws that hold handle in.
4. Tighten the screws and replace seal (push in tight).


My Fridge Runs But Isn't Chilling At All?

If your unit turns ON, and inner fan, underneath fan and compressor are running then you may have gas problem.

*Note: This is for units that that fridge temp is same as ambient (room) and isn't coming down at all.

1. You can 'visually' check the fans and compressor are running.

A) Unit has not reached SET temp after about 3hrs operating (200minutes). In this case something is wrong like ice buildup, door open or simply unit has lost its gas charge. If gas charge is lost technician is needed.

B) A relay in the PCB that controls the compressor has failed. This means that unit will turn ON, but compressor cannot turn OFF, so eventually and quite quickly unit will go below ZERO and ice up. To test is this is the cause, turn off overnight and back ON next day, watch the display drop and see if it turns OFF when it reaches your desired temp.

3. Blocked drier - this isn't that common, but can cause unit to stop completely, to help check this is you access rear area near the compressor, you can grab hold of drier, if it's red hot it is blocked.


The Actual Temperature Inside Is Higher Than What Is On The Display?

The units are controlled by a sensor located in the cabinet, so the display on the screen compared to your OWN thermometer can actually vary depending on the position you place it within the fridge, the location of the cabinet sensor and how your fridge is filled with product.

1. The difference between TOP section and BOTTOM section can be about 2°c, with bottom usually the coldest. So, setting at 2°c means when sensor 'feels' 2°c it turns unit off, at this point inside fridge that area will be 2°c but higher positions in fridge will be 3°c or 4°c.

2. For more 'even' temperature you should keep the area 'in front of GRILL' on the inner back wall about 5cm free from product, allow the air to blow out the bottom and have small spaces between the product to allow to flow to all areas of fridge.

3. Again, check for ice on the rear inner wall, if evaporator has iced up you lose air flow and unit won't run at set temperature.


The Fridge Cools But Just Not Enough?

If your unit still 'cools' but isn't quite getting to the SET temperature, then you need to check following things.

1. Check if the evaporator fan is working. - If this fan isn't going it will cause ice to build up and airflow will be impeded, making unit only run at about 10°C or more.

2. Check if there is any ice built up on the back wall under the fan. - This could be caused by a faulty fan, but could also be caused by the settings on the controller. Some areas may need more defrost time than others to disperse the ice buildup effectively (higher humidity causes more ice). Turn the fridge off overnight or for around 6 hours to allow a full defrost - It may be worth putting some towels down to catch any excess water.

3. Check if the condenser fan is working. - If this fan isn't going it will cause the compressor to stop with safety overload, because of excess heat, the operation will be impeded, making unit only run at about 10°C or more.

4. Check if there is ice or excess buildup of water at rear around piping on compressor - This can happen if the unit has a gas problem and technician is needed.

5. Check that the condenser (big black cage like black piping part near compressor at rear) hasn't blocked up with dust and particles, cleaning this periodically is important, a blocked condenser will cause compressor to get too hot and stop with safety overload, unit will not chill properly.

*Note: If a fan has stopped working it could be that the 'transformer' that actually runs the 12V fan has failed, so that needs to be diagnosed.

My Fridge Has All Of A Sudden Become Noisy?

1. Inner fan? - There are a few things that can cause this fan to produce excess noise.

A) The fan is faulty and a bearing has failed, this will make a very loud noise, and a new fan will be required.
B) The unit has iced up on evaporator, causing the fan to hit ice, this will eventually strangle the fan, and it will fail - defrost the fridge overnight.
C) Something may have come loose near the fan, such as screws that hold it in, or a wire may have moved into a position where it can be hit/contacted by a fan.

2. Rear fan?

A) Fan is faulty, and bearing has failed, this will make a very loud noise, new fan required
B) Something may have come loose near the fan, such as screws that hold it in, or a wire may have moved into a position where it can be hit/contacted by a fan. 

3. Compressor? - This is the main working motor of the fridge and starts and stops 6-8 times an hour. If uneven this could make a noise during operation. Check to ensure the bolts that hold it in place haven't come loose.

4. Foreign Rattle - With fridges the piping has liquid and gas running through it 100% of the time, this can cause piping to vibrate during operation, if the piping is close to another part of the fridge it could make a sound if it touches another part.

*Note: If a fan has stopped working it could be that the transformer that actually runs the 12V fan has failed, so that needs to be diagnosed.