BD425

I have ice building up on my inner rear wall?

1. Check to ensure the evaporator fan is working correctly — this fan is located inside the fridge on the inner rear wall.
2. Unit defrost cycle is not working. This model fridge has an automatic defrost programmed into it, so that after 6 hours of compressor operation the unit will stop for 15 minutes to defrost.
3. You have the unit set too low and are not using it enough for normal operation to allow defrost to take place. Basically, if you set it at 0°C–2°C and don't use it for a while (say 2 weeks), it has a chance to slowly build up ice on the evaporator. Over time this will get bigger and eventually cause trouble. To fix this, simply turn the fridge off for 6 hours; once defrosted, turn it on and monitor to check if the ice returns — it may be worth putting some towels down to catch any excess water from defrosting.

I have water coming out from inside the fridge?

1. The unit is not level, and the evaporator's excess water is not travelling to the drain properly. It is fine to have the 'front' of the fridge higher than the rear, so try extending the 2 × front feet a little.
2. The drain is blocked or 'frozen'. This can happen for different reasons; the drain hole is located behind the rear inner wall in the fridge, so you don't have eye contact, which makes it hard to diagnose. The easiest way to see if it's blocked is to pull the unit out and remove the rear bottom cover — this gives you access to the 'drip tray', which has piping in it that gets hot during cycling and dissipates water. There should be a small pipe prominent there that comes from under the unit to the tray; grab it and 'blow' air strongly to see if it is obstructed. To check if it's frozen over, you need to remove the inside rear wall, which means fully emptying the fridge, taking out the shelves and runners (the long bits that hold the shelves), and removing the rear wall.

How do I adjust the set temperature?

1. Press the thermometer symbol button.
2. Use your '+ or -' buttons to set to the desired level, then press the thermometer symbol button to set.

Note: you may need to press the '+ and -' buttons together to unlock the panel prior to setting the temperature.

My display is fluctuating up and down?

1. LED controller: The LED display goes up/down — this is the normal operation of every fridge in the world. Fridges 'cycle' on and off to help protect the compressor, defrost ice and keep the set temperature stable. These units have a 'variance of 4°C' in the cycle, so if you SET your fridge at 2°C, the compressor goes OFF at 2°C, then back ON at 6°C — that is the 4°C differential. During this time it DOES NOT mean your drinks go from 2°C to 6°C; liquid takes a lot longer to rise in temp than air. So be governed by the temperature of your drinks, NOT what is on the display. A setting of 2°C will generally keep drinks at 3°C–4°C.
2. Defrost: There is also a defrost cycle programmed into the unit (to remove ice from the evaporator), governed by the run time of the compressor followed by a stop time. With these we run a 6-hour run time before a 15-minute stop time, so during this defrost stop time the display can reach 10°C–12°C — again, this is NOT the temperature of your drinks. Defrost is a very important part of the fridge's operation.
3. Ice up: If you notice really unstable temperature and fluctuations, please check the INNER rear wall and see if you can see any buildup of ICE. If ice has built up, turn off for 6 hours and restart.

My door handle has come loose?

To tighten the door handle:

1. Open the door.
2. Remove the black door seal in the area where the handle attaches — do this by firmly pinching and pulling out slowly.
3. Now you have access to the screws that hold the handle in.
4. Tighten the screws and replace the seal (push in tight).

My fridge runs but isn't chilling at all?

If your unit turns ON, and the inner fan, underneath fan and compressor are running, then you may have a gas problem.

*Note: This is for units where the fridge temp is the same as ambient (room) and isn't coming down at all.

1. You can 'visually' check the fans and compressor are running.
   A) Unit has not reached SET temp after about 3 hrs operating (200 minutes). In this case something is wrong like ice buildup, door open, or the unit has simply lost its gas charge. If the gas charge is lost, a technician is needed.
   B) A relay in the PCB that controls the compressor has failed. This means the unit will turn ON, but the compressor cannot turn OFF, so eventually (and quite quickly) the unit will go below ZERO and ice up. To test if this is the cause, turn off overnight and back ON the next day, watch the display drop, and see if it turns OFF when it reaches your desired temp.
2. Blocked drier — this isn't that common, but can cause the unit to stop completely. To check, access the rear area near the compressor and grab hold of the drier; if it's red hot it is blocked.

The actual temperature inside is higher than what is on the display?

The units are controlled by a sensor located in the cabinet, so the display on the screen compared to your OWN thermometer can vary depending on where you place it within the fridge, the location of the cabinet sensor, and how your fridge is filled with product.

1. The difference between the TOP section and BOTTOM section can be about 2°C, with the bottom usually the coldest. So setting at 2°C means when the sensor 'feels' 2°C it turns the unit off; at this point that area inside the fridge will be 2°C but higher positions will be 3°C or 4°C.
2. For a more 'even' temperature you should keep the area 'in front of the GRILL' on the inner back wall about 5cm free from product, allow the air to blow out the bottom, and leave small spaces between product to allow flow to all areas of the fridge.
3. Again, check for ice on the rear inner wall — if the evaporator has iced up you lose airflow and the unit won't run at the set temperature.

The fridge cools but just not enough?

If your unit still 'cools' but isn't quite getting to the SET temperature, then you need to check the following things.

1. Check if the evaporator fan is working.
   If this fan isn't going it will cause ice to build up and airflow will be impeded, making the unit only run at about 10°C or more.
2. Check if there is any ice built up on the back wall under the fan.
   This could be caused by a faulty fan, but also by the settings on the controller. Some areas may need more defrost time than others to disperse the ice buildup effectively (higher humidity causes more ice). Turn the fridge off overnight or for around 6 hours to allow a full defrost — it may be worth putting some towels down to catch any excess water.
3. Check if the condenser fan is working.
   If this fan isn't going it will cause the compressor to stop with safety overload due to excess heat; operation will be impeded, making the unit only run at about 10°C or more.
4. Check if there is ice or excess buildup of water at the rear around the piping on the compressor.
   This can happen if the unit has a gas problem and a technician is needed.
5. Check that the condenser (big black cage-like piping part near the compressor at the rear) hasn't blocked up with dust and particles. Cleaning this periodically is important — a blocked condenser will cause the compressor to get too hot and stop with safety overload, and the unit will not chill properly.

*Note: If a fan has stopped working, it could be that the 'transformer' that runs the 12V fan has failed, so that needs to be diagnosed.

My fridge has all of a sudden become noisy?

1. Inner fan? There are a few things that can cause this fan to produce excess noise.
   A) The fan is faulty and a bearing has failed — this will make a very loud noise, and a new fan will be required.
   B) The unit has iced up on the evaporator, causing the fan to hit ice; this will eventually strangle the fan and it will fail — defrost the fridge overnight.
   C) Something may have come loose near the fan, such as the screws that hold it in, or a wire may have moved into a position where it can be hit/contacted by the fan.
2. Rear fan?
   A) Fan is faulty and the bearing has failed — this will make a very loud noise; a new fan is required.
   B) Something may have come loose near the fan, such as the screws that hold it in, or a wire may have moved into a position where it can be hit/contacted by the fan.
3. Compressor? This is the main working motor of the fridge and starts and stops 6–8 times an hour. If uneven, this could make a noise during operation. Check to ensure the bolts that hold it in place haven't come loose.
4. Foreign rattle? The piping has liquid and gas running through it 100% of the time, which can cause it to vibrate during operation; if the piping is close to another part of the fridge it could make a sound if it touches that part.

*Note: If a fan has stopped working, it could be that the transformer that runs the 12V fan has failed, so that needs to be diagnosed.

Resources

• BD425D Manual 2024
• BD425 Manual 2025
• BD425 Manual 2022
• BD425 Manual 2021